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Textiles APRL 145

Chapter 5: Wool & Silk
by

Laura Oliver

on 24 September 2012

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Transcript of Textiles APRL 145

Wool Ch. 5 Natural Protein Fibers Objectives
Know the characteristics common to protein fibers
Recognize the differences in characteristics and performance among the common protein fibers
Understand the processing of natural protein fibers
Integrate the properties of natural protein fibers with market needs
Identify natural protein fibers Thursday, Sept. 20th. 1. Lab Quiz: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
2. Chapter 5: Natural Protein Fibers - Wool
3. Lab 4: Wool Animal origin:
Wool - hair and fur of animals
Silk - secretion of silk caterpillar Natural Protein Fibers Amino Acids: building blocks of protein What are they? Protein Fiber Characteristics Characteristics
Resilient
Hygroscopic
Low tenacity when wet
Lower specific gravity than natural cellulosic fibers
Sensitive to alkalis and oxidization
Potential for insect damage
Damaged by dry heat
Somewhat flame retardant Wool Merino Sheep Wool Wool Structure and Composition Production Properties and Uses Types
Sheared
Dead Pull Grading and Sorting
Fineness
Length
Color
Crimp
Strength Lamb's Wool Raw / Grease Wool
Clean / Scoured Wool Federal Trade Commission
Virgin Wool
Wool
Recycled Wool Worsted Woolen Medulla Cortex Cuticle Keratin of H, O, N, C, and S in amino acids in spiral helix form Microscopic View Wool Molecule Amino acids build a protein Properties
Aesthetics
Durability
Comfort
Appearance
Care Environmental Concerns
Grazing
Animal treatment: Mulesing
Manure disposal
Fiber Processing #38 Herringbone Suiting - Woolen Yarn - 100% Camel Hair
#61 Wool Crepe - Worsted Yarn - 100% Wool Specialty Wools Specialty Wools Silk Ch. 5 Natural Protein Fibers Silk Natural Protein fiber
Only natural filament fiber
First cultivated in China around 2640 B.C.
Originally reserved for royalty clothing and gifts, but spread through Chinese culture and trade.
Staple of pre-industrial international trade.

Production
Sericulture: production of cultivated silk Silk moths lay eggs
Larvae fed mulberry leaves Start spinning cocoon after 35 days
Each larvae produces aprox. 1 mile of filament Cocoons are stifled, killing silk larvae
Sorted by fiber size and quality
Fibers are REELED - gathered and wound Wild & Peace Silk Structure Solid, continuous fiber
Only natural filament
Fine
Triangular shape contributes to luster
Protein is FIBRONIN
High molecular orientation Properties Aesthetics
Durability
Comfort
Appearance retention
Care
Environmental concerns
Identification
Uses Spider Silk Microscopic Fiber Comparison Tuesday, Sept. 25 Chapter 5: Silk
Lab 5: Silk
# 4 Tussah - Staple
# 5 China Silk - Filament
Full transcript