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Historical Perspecitves in Fashion
Transcript of Historical Perspecitves in Fashion
Minh Thi Canley Vale HS By: Minh Thi Trang Fashion in the 1910s was followed on from the former years. However, as time goes by, the fashion was influenced immensely due to the different technological developments, social events and circumstances of the decade. DID WORLD WAR I INFLUENCE THE FASHION VOGUE? The Great War from 1914 – 1918 influenced greatly upon the world of fashion. Great changes came to the couture, where fashion came to a standstill with patriotism dominating the world. Wartime prevented commerce activities between France and the United States and many famous fashion designers such as Paul Poiret were called into the military and hence their closure of their couture houses.
The war affected the trends in general, as well where it provoked yet another fashion – skirts that rose well above the ankles. Military influences were also seen in apparel for little boys and men where they preferred military looks and girls skirt were cut shorter due to material rationing. Furthermore, during and at the end of WWI, the barrel silhouette or tonneau look was introduced where it was a baggy dress and jacket which made women look large and baggy in the chest. This new vogue was also accompanied with the end of the Gibson Girl fashion trend. The introduction of THE ASSEMBLY LINE ACTIVE WOMEN! It was becoming increasingly acceptable for women to work outside the home during this period of time, where they were expected to lead an active and useful life, an attitude aroused due to World War I where there was increasing need for helpers for charities and hospital aids. To accommodate this active role, women wore clothes that were of a more practical use, thus, the reason for the looser fitting corset and the raised hemlines, where walking was made easier. In addition for daytime wear, women favoured a more practical and masculine suit where it was worn over their elegant attire.
The hemline of their fashionable skirt became higher also because of the automobile’s achieved status, where women increasingly began to use cars. Hence, a higher skirt was needed so the material didn’t interrupt the accelerator or brakes. To aid this new fashion statement, women’s hair was cut shorter where it was hidden by hats and turbans. THE CREATION OF THE silhouettes Miss, it doesn't allow me to paste a youtube video, so this was the youtube video which I was going to use. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciEjlonK1JI then watch this! - The sinking of the Titanic
- The introduction of the assembly line
- The Great War
- Women becoming increasingly active
- Women's suffrage and rational dress movement
- The creation of the silent film
- The invention of the sewing machine
- Ballets Ruses performed Scheherazade in Paris Some of these includes: The Titanic was a British passenger liner which was, at the time, known as the biggest and unsinkable ship. Ironically, its first maiden cruise was a disaster where its fateful voyage killed many passengers as a result of the collision with an iceberg. However, the press coverage of the sinking of the Titanic influenced fashion as well, where the European clothing, worn by the victims were seem as fashionable. OMG !! The invention of the assembly line concept helped reduced the time required to manufacture clothing. This new speed allowed fashion to change about every 10 years rather than the previous 50 year spans. Fashion in the 1910s is characterized by the drastic change in women’s wear, especially the quick contrast made from the rich and exotic wealth of the first half of the decade and the dull straight-forward designs of garments worn during the Great War, and the very little change in mens clothing and fashion from the previous decades. Shape and silhouette constantly evolved where new techniques on the construction of the garment were invented. Due to the influence of technological developments and social events such as Titanic’s fateful voyage, fashion styles changed considerably. Skirts rose from floor length to well above the ankle and women began to bob their hair. Various historical changes were occurring during this decade and these circumstances help mould fashion to the way it is known now. Due to the women’s suffrage movement and the rational dress movement, styles began to change drastically. Women protested on their right to vote and their right to possess sensible clothing. This awareness became a huge success where women’s garments were improved, especially their clothing styles, moving closer towards freedom. Their petitions were also influential in persuading women to adopt the simplified garments for athletic activities such as swimming and bicycling WOMEN'S SUFFRAGE AND RATIONAL DRESS MOVEMENT SILENT FILM ... ... and it's influence? Silent films were those where non-digetic and non-digetic sounds were projected from the film, hence their name. This form of media may perhaps influenced the women’s fashion the most, as a vast number of glamorous movie stars were seen on the big screen leaving observers wanting to look and dress like them. The turn of the century marked a very important day on our history where it is clearly seen that our nation has become increasingly industrialized, through the invention of the sewing machine. This innovation expanded women’s fashion dramatically where in the past, clothes had been mostly hand sewn, but after the invention of this vital tool, mass production of clothing is possible and the latest fashions affordable to both the middle and lower classes. Ballets Ruses performs Scheherazade in Paris When the ballets Ruses performed Scheherazade in Paris in 1910, a craze for Orientalism arose where fashionable women of the time wanted to look like them. Immediately, many fashion designers, like Paul Poiret, began to translate this vogue into the fashion world where women were instantly transformed into harem girls in flowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colours and geishas in glamorous kimono. A look which also ensued around this time was the Arabian look where the 1910s interpreted this style in a very simple manner. Between 1910 and 1920, fashion began to loosen up where during the early 1910s, the favourable silhouette became more lithe, fluid and soft that in the 1900s. Women wore minimal corseting where between 1908 and the end of the 1920s, the tubular silhouette, the emphasis slimness and the natural motion of the body, remained fashionable. However, the most popular silhouette throughout the decade was the tunic over a long underskirt. continuation of higher waists
skirts begin to feature tunics and drapery
large hats are seen
long jackets over blouse or dress
high collar and hourglass figure vanishes
skirt is held tighter and straight
clothes begin to imitate male suits 1912 1913 smaller hats
jackets are made longer with wide revers
skirt hem extends
more defined imitation of male suits 1914 features new 'peg-top' skirt
short hair gains popularity
jackets slightly becomes shorter
reglan sleeves 1915 wide skirts
bizarre hat shape evolves
double skirts becomes a popular fashion trend
corsets become rare 1916 very high waist and wide skirt
mid-calf ankle boots
soft and feminine
1917 hats became more bizarre
waists drops and loses it's shape
the development towards a straight silhouette can be foreshadowed
jackets extended longher
skirts less wide where the hems would reach the ankle simple lines, mobility and comfort are featured
new large collar shapes
skirts become narrower, shorter and straighter 1918 1919 the new silhouette is increasingly simple
the one-peice is popular
waistline drops and almost vanishes
hems of the skirts raises and goes shorter CASE STUDY on Paul Poiret During this decade, there were many fashion designers who aided in the success of the textile industry. One fashion celebrity in particular who ‘ushered in the 20th century women’ was Paul Poiret.
Paul Poiret was a French couturier who was acknowledged as one of the most fashionable dress designer of pre-World War I where he was extremely influential. His innovative conception of women’s clothing aid to revolutionize the fashion world by his Neoclassical and Orientalist styles, and also by liberating women from replacing constricting undergarments with the brassiere. He was also noted for the introduction of the hobble skirt, which confined women to mincing steps. Poiret’s skills of draping, rather than tailoring, was the source of fashion’s modern forms where it introduced clothing that hung from the shoulders which enabled a diversity of possibilities. He has neglected the use of tight corsets and designed new elegant styles with the combination of straight lines, oriental and antique motifs and rectangular forms. His designs within the 1910s changed the direction of costume history, through his cocoon dresses and ‘harem’ pantaloons which did not require constrictive undergarments and hence were loose and unstructured. Other styles in which he became recognised for was the ‘Empire Line’ dress (a dress where it is belted just below the bust) and the ‘Lampshade’ Tunic (which was shaped like a lampshade with a wired hem and attached fur trimming, to emphasis the shape). Many of Poiret’s theatrical designs were inspired by a widespread interest in art deco inspired prints, Eastern art and the Russian ballet where he was attracted by the clever use of the rich colours and exotic decorative elements within their dramatic costumes. He also loved classical Greek sculptures and was deeply inspired by the method of draping used by the Greeks. These influences and inspirations were able to help him in designing such designs with lavish details and outrageous shapes and colours. Garish reds, oranges, lemons and brilliant blue were the most favourable colour choices within the decade. HOBBLE SKIRT A hobble skirt – from to hobble = ‘to limp’ – is a skirt with a narrow enough hem to allow the wearer to walk little at a time where even normal strides would easily damage the skirt. However, some women also came to the extent where they were forced to bind their legs together with a cord to prevent this from occurring. Sometimes, these skirts would be extremely slim and narrow where it would even inhibit walking. For easier movement, these ‘hobble’ skirts soon began to have slits, hidden pleats, and draping that lessened the restriction on a woman’s ability to walk freely. Hobble skirts are still present today in Goth communities, but they are also sometimes used as evening gowns and wedding dresses. WHAT THE HELL IS A PEG-TOP SKIRT A hobble skirt with a peg-top (wide at the hips and narrow at the ankles) Peg-top skirts were full at the hips and narrow at the foot. These types of skirts can be seen within modern fashion where it is long to the foot but normally knee-length or above-knee-length. CORSETS Corset are a woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure, which were most of the time uncomfortable to wear. Long laces from the corset would be pulled until a women’s body was held in a tightly defined silhouette, then tied to keep it that way. Yet despite this, many women found them comfortable.
ouch! However, more freedom was attained after 1907 when women’s clothes were altered for an uncorseted figure. This resulted in the clothes flowing softer and in line with the body rather than the body trying to conform to clothing. Fortunately, corsets found in contemporary designs can be seen on wedding dresses where it is not as restrictive as the previous centuries. FUR TRIMMING Fur trimming was used extensively throughout many fashionable garments, especially through using fur to trim tunics. Paul Poiret also used fur trimming for the wired hem of his ‘lampshade’ skirt, where it creates emphasis and makes it obvious. FABRIC: White linen with embroidery was universal where silk was a very popular material during the first part of the decade. The other preferable fabrics included satin, taffeta, chiffon and light weigh silks and washable cotton. However, a new fabric, rayon, the first synthetic material, was invented where it did not receive the outcome it had expected. It was very important where it was produced at a low cost. It did not satisfy individuals for several decades but was then favoured at the end of the century.