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Creative Industries: Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion

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Loretta Or

on 11 March 2014

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Transcript of Creative Industries: Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion

Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion
Social and Economic Backdrops
Economic prosperity of the 1980s

Cohesive and Conformist

Disillusion, alienation, uncertainty and anger

Value system is
Changing
The Kogal Phoenomenon
since 1995

redefined sartorial and sexual norms

was associated with a minority of social dropouts
Cosplay -- Gothic Lolitas
CosPlay (Costume Play)→People dress as characters from manga (comics) / anime (animated films)

To have fun and entertain oneself / dress up for public events

For example: anime conventions

Conclusion
Fashion is a collective activity

A strong social connection & a sense of belonging

Clothes , makeup, accessories & jewelry → Symbolic identity

The teens produce, diffuse, market and guide the fashion industry professionals about the coming trend

This may also apply to other creative industries

Introduction
Social and Economic Backdrops
Fashion = prevailing ideology of society

The assertion of
Individual
> Group identity

subcultures are formed in the space between surveillance and the evasion of surveillance

being under scrutiny the pleasure of being watched
Social and Economic Backdrops
challenge and redefine the existing notion of what is fashionable and aesthetic

in search of identity and a community
Kogal
Ganguro
Yamamba
Mamba
Street Fashion as Symbolic Group Identity
visible group identity

shared symbols of membership affiliation

only the insiders can tell the difference
Lomamba
B-Gyaru
Cocomba
Himegyaru
Teens' Role as Producers of Fashion
Loose white socks

since1993

by 1996,
35
different types

necessary items for junior and high school girls

marketed by teens
Salesgirls as Designers and Merchandisers in Shibuya 109
Shibuya 109 : collection stores that cater to Japanese teens

influential in setting the new trends

first-hand knowledge

icons "karisuma tenin"
Teen Consumers as Designers
Teens' opinions and voices are reflected directly in their merchandise selection

"If they say something is kawaii, it usually sells."

followers of street fashion start teen-targeted labels
Artists-Turned-Designers in Harajuka and Ura-Harajuku
small boutiques and stores run by young artists

gateway to the mainstream Japanese fashion industry

marginal and underground atmosphere

selected shops that sell minor brands designed by semi-professional designers
Characteristics of the fashion business in Ura-Hara
no organizational structure

consider manufacturing or the actual making process extremely important

sold in small quantities

not worried about the mainstream trends

sensitive to the trends within their own subculture
Beauty Beast

Takao Yamashita

without training and formal fashion degree
Characteristics of the fashion business in Ura-Hara
creative aesthetic work

making profit is not their ultimate goal

grew out of friends' network

put additional elements to create some thing of their own
Cosplay -- Gothic Lolitas
Gothic Lolita: One of the most popular costumes found in Harajuku area since 1990s (Lolita subculture)

A counter reaction to the Ganguro style

The Lolita followers created the website community to discuss and share images

The Lolita followers use their own language and abbreviations to communicate

For example: Lolibra→Lolita brand , Cardi→Cardigan

De-Professionalization of Occupational Categories
Front stage : Fashion was exposed

Back stage : Clothes were being manufactured for the rich

The professionalization of occupational categories in fashion had been intact in the mainstream fashion world

Japanese street fashion :Blurs & defies occupational classifications in fashion

Allows the teens to be designers, merchandisers, salespeople, stylists and models

Marketing and Diffusion strategies
Kawaii (Cute) as a marketing tool

Cute culture : Permeates Japanese teen society & started as a youth culture among teenagers

Kawaii is a feeling, state of mind & a lifestyle

Kawaii : Key to success in Japanese street fashion


Marketing and Diffusion strategies
Street fashion : Depends upon rapid changes in style

Companies hire teens as salesgirls, stylists, designers & marketers to boost profits

Teen-targeted labels recruit designers from a pool of famous & popular salesgirls working in the Shibuya 109

Companies need the teens’ ideas for their business to survive


Scarcity, Originality and Speed
The Japanese teens : Discover marginal underground designers & worship their labels as their own

The brands focus only on the domestic market

Clothes that hardly anyone else wears, exclusive


Elegant Gothic
Gothic Lolita

A combination of styles from the Victorian era & modern Gothic looks

Ama-Loli
Punk Gothic
Scarcity, Originality and Speed
Japanese street fashion : Spreading outside Japan & is becoming a global business

Speed : Merchandise changes very fast

The clothes are set at a reasonable price

Newness has been the essence of the Japanese street fashion


Diffusion
Diffusion theories of fashion : How fashion is spread through interpersonal communication & institutional networks

Today’s fashion : Consumer driven

No one can accurately predict how long the trend will last

Technology & the internet help to diffuse fashion worldwide

Japanese Manga animation, food are popular



Teen readers as Magazine models
Japanese fashion magazines have great influence on Asian girls (e.g. SOS,Tokyo Style News, Cawaii, Egg)

The magazines feature high school students & teens

A shift from class fashion to consumer fashion

The consumers & readers : Producers & disseminates

The boundary between production & consumption of fashion are breaking down

Allow the non-professional viewers to participate in the professional world of fashion
Teen readers as Magazine models
Street fashion magazines invite teens to be models

The well-known teen models are hired as salesgirls by popular retail stores to attract customers to visit the stores


Is teens become producers of fashion a international trend ?
Do Hong Kong people have their own fashion style ? Why ?
END
Harajuku
How much do you know about Japanese Street Fashion?
Shibuya
Bohemian
Mori
Visual
Lolita
Full transcript