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Fashion Police: Russia Late 1800s Edition.

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Pooja M

on 15 February 2014

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Transcript of Fashion Police: Russia Late 1800s Edition.

Fashion Police: Russia Late 1800s Edition.
Fashion Expectations
- Women
- Men
- Children
Societal Expectations
- Women
- Men
- Children
Women's Fashion and Makeup
Men's Fashion
Children's Style
Expectations for Women
Expectations for Men
Expectations for Children
Made by: Pooja Mandagere, 6th hour, IB English
- Skirts in the late 1800s remained full, with a lot of that fullness located at the back.
- The size of bustles decreased gradually at the end of the 1800s
- Blouses of the late 1800s were heavily embellished and ornate. Lace, appliques, pleats and ties were all feminine additions to blouses.
- Full sleeves were also popular for women of this time. Sleeves that were tapered at the bottom and fuller at the top were called leg of mutton sleeves.
- Hats were a part of everyday dress during this era. Elaborate bonnets and hats were commonly worn outdoors. Women also used parasols to protect their skin from the sun.
- Since synthetic dyes were a new innovation during this era, women's clothing tended to be vivid. Often, dresses were made in two colors. Colors used for formal evening wear tended to be softer.
- Hats were a part of everyday dress during this era. Elaborate bonnets and hats were commonly worn outdoors. Women also used parasols to protect their skin from the sun.
- A woman of the 19th century who did not dress "appropriately" could expect to be ignored or insulted in the street. These women were pilloried in newspapers, popular songs and in the pulpit.
- Skin: Pale skin was as a sign of wealth. Wealthy women did not have to work outside, and so being pale was a sign of being part of the upper class. Pale skin could be achieved through chemical means- sometimes women used face powders made of lead (which was, of course, poisonous, but it achieved the desired affect)..

- Eyes: Eyeshadow was not really used. Beeswax was sometimes used to make eyelashes look thicker, and Kohl was often used on eye lashes.

- Cheeks and Lips: Rouge was commercially available, but you could not be seen applying it. Some women, instead of applying rouge to their cheeks, would pinch or slap them to make them appear rosy and glow. Lips were sometimes pinched or even bitten to make them look red and swollen. Lipstick was beeswax dyed with crushed flowers or sometimes carmine beetles.

- Hair: While not specifically makeup, doing one's hair was part of the beauty habit. Women would dye their hair using henna, sometimes iron oxide to make make a hair darker (iron oxide has been used to make black tattoo ink) and women could lighten their hair if they coated it in lemon juice and sat in the sun for a little while (with their body and face carefully covered, lest they accidentally tan).

The Victorian Era recapitulated the idea of women as home-care givers. Hence, the Victorian model of women's clothing symbolized women as members of care-givers and wives in society. A woman was to be an austere image for the husband, family and community at large, representing the ideals of beauty and responsibility at home. Modest dressing that including some impractical limitations, such as abnormally large dresses, symbolized feminine beauty at a time when suffragist and feminist movements began springing up across the 1800s.

The ideal Victorian woman was one who was pious, never worked, married young, ran her home and cared for her husband and children. Adornment was only what a father or husband gave her. The ideal woman wore no makeup or displayed pleasure in anything except home, children and husband. Her role in society centered on getting married, having children and running a household.

The Victorian woman had no legal rights until she was married. Then her rights as a married woman were the same as those of her children. She could not vote or own her own property. She could not own her checking or savings account. The Victorian view was that women did not have the intellect to handle such problems or to make decisions about money.

She was expected to organize parties and dinners whereby she could provide the prestige and status to her husband. These parties were a way for her, as an obedient wife, to make it possible for him to establish new economically or politically important relationships.

Society thought it was unnecessary for women to attend colleges as her role was strictly a domestic one. Society also believed that the woman did not have the intellect or stamina for learning. She learned history, geography, literature, drawing, dancing, music, embroidery, French and about household accounts from a governess or tutor at home. After marriage, it was her responsibility to improve herself on cultural activities.
Boys were allowed to go to school and the education that society believed was required to handle the responsibilities of being a man. Rich Families sent their sons to famous schools while poor children worked in harsh conditions.
Girls continued to wear dresses, with age dictating the length of the skirt. Until a girl was approximately 12 years of age, her skirt came to her knees. From that age until 17, her skirt reached her ankles. After that, women wore floor-length dresses. The dresses for all ages were generally heavily decorated and made of cotton, silk, sateen, fine wool and poplin. Hats were a must and also were very ornate. Girls of poor families followed the same hem guidelines, although her dresses were not as ornate and usually made of thinner cotton and wool.
The first suits boys wore were called skeleton suits. These suits were tight to the body, and the pants attached to the jacket with buttons and worn with a white blouse. After that, and up until the 1870s, boys wore long pants with tunics or other shirts and suspenders, while adult men wore knee breeches. After the 1870s, boys wore knee breeches and grown men wore long pants. Fabrics for boys' clothes were often cottons, wools and some silk.
- Victorian gentlemen wore a wide variety of vests in almost every combination of cut, color and cloth imaginable. With the opening of China during the 1840's silk become relatively inexpensive, therefore men often wore extremely fancy silk vests even during the day.
- The second half of the nineteenth century was dominated by the frock coat – a man’s coat with full skirt both front and back that reached just above the knee. It was common for both day and evening wear through the 1880’s, making it the most versatile coat of the Victorian wardrobe
- Tailcoats – coats with a knee length skirt in the back contrasted with a short front - were popular for most of the century, often used for parties and formal events.
- Men wore trousers that had stripes and sometimes checks which they often paired with different patterns, stripes or checks.
- Belts weren’t used, nor did pants even have belt loops. Rather, suspenders or braces of leather or canvas were common.
- Also nearly universal was the pocket watch and fob, which were prominently displayed hanging from the front vest pockets.
- During Victorian times men across socio-economic lines were strongly expected to provide for their families. Conversely, married women were expected not to work outside the home. The gender lines, as they regarded work, were strongly drawn. Men's work was meant to provide monetarily for the family while a woman's work, if she worked at all, was at home keeping the home.
- Victorian men had far more rights than their female counterparts. Many of the rights denied women, such as voting and property ownership, were denied because of the Victorian attitude that men were superior in mind and body. Victorian men were believed to be better able to make rational decisions than women of the same time. They were better educated, as a rule, and were strongly considered the heads of their families.
- Converse to the idea that Victorian men were superior to women, they also were considered fallen. Victorian men considered themselves sinners who could be saved by a virtuous woman. Because of this they held virginal women, who seemed to have no appetite for anything carnal, in high esteem. This attitude forgave men for behavior that would have been unacceptable in a woman.
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