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22.2 Ocean Waves

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by

Katelynn Dorn

on 28 January 2015

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Transcript of 22.2 Ocean Waves

22.2 Ocean Waves
Ocean Waves
waves- periodic up and down movement of water
transfer energy- crest and trough
wave height
wavelength- distance between two crests or troughs
period- usually 2-10 seconds
wave speed = wavelength/period
Wave Energy
wind transfers energy to water
larger waves tend to grow larger because they receive more wind
swell
Waves and the shore
Breakers
foamy mass of water
bottom of wave slowed down by friction
top of wave keeps up speed
steepness of ocean floor = bigger breakers
Refraction- bends backward, changes direction
Currents
Undertows and Rip Currents
first water to pull back
rip current- breakers in underwater sand bars return to ocean
detected by gap in breakers or turbid water
Longshore Currents- flow parallel to shore
Tsunamis
period of 15 min at 725 km/hr
tsunami may be detected by sudden pulling back of water from the shore
Crescent City, CA- 12 people killed, misinterpreted a trough
1960 tsunami across S. America, Hawaii, Japan
Japan tsunami- 2011
Water movement in a wave
water does not move forward, only energy
each particle moves in a circular motion as the energy is transferred
at the end of the period, particle ends up back where it started
circle of particle is equal to height of wave
Wave Size
1. speed of wind
blow crest off of wave-whitecaps
2. length of time wind blows
3. fetch of a wave
distance wind can blow
strong waves are steady winds across a long fetch
choppy waves
length to height ratio can only go so far
34 m
"Slowly driftin'...
wave after wave."
Assignment- 22.2 Q's
Full transcript