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Copy of Scalp Care, Shampooing & Conditioning

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Diane Shoffstall

on 27 November 2017

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Transcript of Copy of Scalp Care, Shampooing & Conditioning

Learning Objectives
~ Explain the two most important requirements for scalp care
~Describe the benefits of scalp massage
~Treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily or dandruff ridden
~Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp
~Discuss the uses and benefits of various types of shampoos and conditioners
~Demonstrate the proper draping of client for basic shampoos and chemical services.
~Identify the 3-part procedure
The first step of the service actually includes three different processes:

1.Scalp Care and Massage

Remember: If clients are happy with the shampoo, they are far more likely to be happy with the entire service!

One of the most important experiences that a stylist provides is the shampoo, which can be heavenly, forgettable, or even frightening.
Scalp Care, Shampooing & Conditioning
Clients begin making judgements as soon as they walk into a salon.

Such as :

1. How does salon look?
2. What kind of music is playing?
3. Does receptionist greet them with a smile?

Why Study Scalp Care, Shampooing & Conditioning
~ The shampoo service is the first opportunity to reinforce your position as a professional.

~To be able to examine, identify and address hair and scalp conditions and whether you can treat or need to refer to physician.

~Knowledge of products will assist you in helping your client choose the proper product for them.

~Successful home care regimens will keep your work looking its best.
Scalp Care and Massage
Two basic requirements for a healthy scalp.

1. Cleanliness

Scalp Treatments and Massage are a service you will perform often. You should learn to do these procedures well.
Scalp Treatment & Massage may be performed either:

1.Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent

2. During a shampoo (once conditioner has been applied to the hair) for relaxation.

***The difference between a relaxation and treatment massage are the products you use.
Be sure to review the client's intake form and discuss any medical condition they may have that may be contraindicated.

Contraindicated~avoiding a procedure or condition that may produce undesirable side effects. Such as severe uncontrolled hypertension.
Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
The purpose of a general scalp treatment is to maintain the scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition.

A hair and scalp treatment should be recommended only after a hair and scalp examination.

A treatment should be given either before or after a shampoo, depending on the treatment.
Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment
Use this when there is a deficiency of natural oil on the scalp and hair.

Use products containing moisturizing and emollient ingredients.

For dry hair treatments use a scalp steamer, which resembles a hooded dryer.
Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
Excessive oiliness is caused by overactive sebaceous glands.

Manipulate scalp and knead it to increase blood circulation.

Hardened sebum in pores will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing.

Normalizing the function of these glands will happen by flushing out the excess sebum by continued treatments.
Anti-dandruff Treatment
Dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia.

Anti-dandruff shampoos, conditioners and topical lotions contain anti-fungal agents that control dandruff by suppressing the growth of malassezia.

Additional salon treatments and frequent use of anti-dandruff home care should be recommended.
Hair Brushing
Correct hair brushing stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp, it helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup and gives hair added shine.

Should be included as a part of every shampoo and scalp treatment, regardless of whether client's hair and scalp are dry or oily.

Brushing allows the stylist to examine the scalp for abrasions and infections.
The two exceptions to hair brushing are:

1. Do not brush or irritate the scalp before giving a chemical service.

2. Do not brush if the scalp is irritated.
Brushing, massaging or shampooing is not recommended for:

~single-process and double process haircolor.
~most chemical relaxers
~some temporary and semi-permanent haircolor

** Always follow manufacturers directions and if shampooing is recommended do so gently to avoid scalp irritation.
The most highly recommended hairbrushes are those made from natural bristles.

Natural bristles have many tiny overlapping layers or scales, which clean and add luster to the hair.
Maintaining good posture will protect you against the muscle aches, back strain and other physical problems that can result from performing shampoos.

The most important rule is to always keep your shoulders back while performing shampoo.

Free standing shampoo bowls allow for healthier body alignment and help reduce strain on the back and shoulders.
Understanding Shampoo
Always check for these conditions:
~Dry, dehydrated hair
~Thinning of the hair
~Excessive hair left in sink trap
~Dry, tight scalp
~Oily Scalp
~Abnormal flaking on the scalp
~Open wounds or scalp irritations
~Tick or Lice infestations
The primary purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair and scalp.

Hair and scalp need to be cleansed regularly to combat against oil accumulation and perspiration that mix with natural scales and dirt to create a breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria.

To be effective, a shampoo must remove all dirt, oils, cosmetics an skin debris without adversely affecting the scalp or hair.

Hair should only be shampooed as often as necessary. Excessive shampooing strips hair of its protective oil.

In small amounts the hair's natural oil helps seal and protect the hair's cuticle.
Selecting the Proper Shampoo
As a professional cosmetologist, you should become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, natural, color treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.

A thorough understanding of your products will help you recommend them as at-home-care items for purchase by your clients.

Select a shampoo according to the condition of your client's hair and scalp.
Hair can usually be classified as oily, dry, normal or chemically treated.

Your client may have and oily scalp with dry hair, possibly due to over-processing.

Know if the hair has been chemically treated.

Chemically treated hair (hair that has been lightened, colored, permed, chemically relaxed) and hair that has been abused with the use of harsh shampoos, damaged by improper care and/or exposed to the elements such as wind, sun, cold or heat, will require a product that is less harsh and more conditioning than virgin hair.

The wrong product choice can make a good haircut look bad, and can negatively affect the outcome of a chemical service.
The pH Scale
Understanding pH level will help you select the proper shampoo for your client.

pH = p- potential H- hydrogen

The amount of hydrogen in a solution, which determines whether it is alkaline or acid, is measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 - 14.

The pH of a neutral solution, one which is neither alkaline nor acid, is 7.

The more alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher it is.

A high pH shampoo can cause fading in color treated hair.

A slightly acidic shampoo more closely matches the ideal pH of hair.
7 ways to make a good shampoo experience great!!
1. Always massage scalp to the clients preference. Ask first....sensitive scalp??

2. Always ask if water is to hot, cold or just right. Adjust accordingly.

3. Do not allow water on your hands to get on client's face. It may remove makeup, making a good experience into a bad one.

4. Remember the nape area. It is easily missed when shampooing and rinsing. Always double check before returning to your station.

5. Do not drench the towel that is draped around client's neck. Replace as necessary.

6. When blotting after shampoo...again be careful of the face....do not remove clients makeup.

7. As you learn to give a great shampoo, you should also learn to give a great relaxation massage. Clients will say " Don't stop, you can do that for hours!"
The Chemistry of Water
Water is the most abundant and important element on Earth.

It is classified as a universal solvent.

Fresh water is purified by sedimentation(matter sinking to the bottom).

Filteration, is water passing through a porous substance, such as a filter paper or charcoal,to remove suspended clay, sand, and organic material.

Public water has small amounts of chlorine added before it enters the sytem, to kill bacteria.

Boiling water to a temp of 212* will also destroy most microbes.

Water can be further treated by distillation, a process of heating water so that it becomes a vapor, and then condensing the purified vapor so that it collects as a liquid.

Depending on the kinds and amounts of minerals present in water, water can be classified as either hard or soft.

To make a professional suggestion on products for clients you should know if they have hard or soft water.

Soft water is rainwater or chemically softened water that contains only small amounts of minerals, this allows shampoos to lather.

Hard Water is often in well-water and contains minerals that reduce the ability of soap or shampoo to lather.
The Chemistry of Shampoo
Understanding the chemical and botanical ingredients found in shampoos will determine which you should recommend to keep clients hair in its best condition.

Water is the main ingredient in most shampoos.

Generally it is not just plain water, but purified or deionized water, water that has had impurities removed. Such as calcium, magnesium and other metal ions that can make a product unstable.

Water is usually the first ingredient listed, from there on ingredients are listed in descending order.
The second ingredient that most shampoos have in common is the primary surfactant (or base detergent).

Surfactants are cleansing or surface cleaning agents.

A surfactant molecule has two ends:

1. A hydrophilic or water attracting head.

2. A lipophilic or oil attracting tail.

During shampooing the hydrophilic head attracts water, and the lipophilic tail attracts oil.

This creates a push/pull process that causes the oils, dirt and deposits to roll-up into little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair.

Moisturizer, which is a product formulated to add moisture to dry hair or promote the retention of moisture, is a common additive along with oil, protein, preservatives, foam enhancers and perfume.
Types of Shampoo
Clients are well informed now, so your credibility as a professional could be in question if you do not know your products.

There are shampoos for all types of hair:
~oily ~dry~fine~coarse~limp~lightened~permed~relaxed~color treated~color enhancing~clarifying or chelating.

pH Balanced Shampoo
A pH balanced shampoo is balanced to the pH of skin and hair (4.5-5.5).

Some shampoos are pH balanced by adding citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid.

pH Balanced Shampoos help to close the hair cuticle and are recommended for hair that has been color treated or lightened.

Most cosmetic chemists today agree that a low pH is good for all hair, especially chemically treated hair.
Conditioning Shampoo
Conditioning Shampoo, also known as moisturizing shampoo, is designed to make the hair appear smooth and shiny and to improve manageability.

Protein and biotin are just two examples of conditioning agents

Conditioning shampoos are also non-stripping(they do not remove artificial color from the hair.
Medicated Shampoo
Is a shampoo that contains special ingredients that are very effective in reducing dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions.

Some medicated shampoos have to be prescribed by a physician.

Also may affect color treated hair or lightened hair.

Always read and follow directions.
Clarifying Shampoo
These shampoos contain an active chelating agent that binds to metals and removes them from the hair.

Also, an equalizing agent that enriches hair, helps retain moisture and makes hair more manageable.

Clarifying shampoos should be used when a buildup is evident, after swimming and prior to all chemical services.
Balancing Shampoo
Is for oily hair and scalp, it will wash away excess oiliness, while preventing the hair from drying out.
Dry Shampoo
Used when the state of a client's health makes a wet shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage.

Dry shampoo is also known as powder shampoo and will cleanse the hair without the use of soap and water.

Never give a dry shampoo before a chemical service and always read instructions.

Usually sprinkled in from scalp to ends and then brushed through with a natural-bristle brush to remove dirt and oil.
Color Enhancing Shampoo
Color-enhancing shampoo is created by combining the surfactant base with basic color pigment.

Similar to a temporary rinse because it is attracted to porous hair and result in only slight color changes that are removed with plain shampooing.

Used to brighten, add a slight hint of color and to eliminate unwanted color tones.(gold, brassy, overly cool)
Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs
Prepared wig-cleaning solution is available for these hair enhancements.
Shampooing Clients with Special Needs
Clients with disabilities or those who are wheelchair bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be shampooed.

Sometimes a client will show up at the salon with freshly washed hair and other times a dry shampoo is appropriate.
Understanding Conditioner
Conditioner is a special chemical agent applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer to help restore the hair's strength, to give hair body and to protect hair against possible breakage.

Conditioners are a temporary remedy or cosmetic fix for hair that feels dry or appears damaged.

They do not improve the quality of new hair growth.
Conditioning treatments can restore luster, shine,manageability and strength while the damaged hair grows long enough to be cut off and replaced by new, healthier hair.

Conditioners are available in three basic types.

1. Rinse out conditioner.
2. Treatment or repair conditioner.
3.Leave-in conditioner.
Most conditioners contain silicone along with moisture-binding humectants, substances that absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture.

Silicone reflects light and makes the hair appear shiny.

Other ingredients reduce frizz or bulk up the hair.

Most treatments and leave-ins contain proteins, which penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within.
The hair's cuticle is made up of overlapping scales.

Conditioners, detangling rinses and cream rinses, smooth the cuticle and coat the hair shaft to achieve healthier looking hair.

The cortex makes up 90% of the hair stand. The cortex can be penetrated with protein conditioner, products designed to penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within, to temporarily reconstruct the hair.
Other Conditioning Agents
Other conditioning agents you need to be familiar with are:

~Spray on thermal protector...is applied to hair prior to any thermal service to protect the hair from harmful effects of blow-drying, thermal irons or electric rollers.

~Scalp conditioner, usually found in a cream base, is used to soften and improve the health of the scalp.

~Medicated scalp lotion...promotes healing of the scalp.

~Scalp astringent lotion removes oil accumulation from the scalp and are used after a scalp treatment and before styling.
Deep Conditioning Treatment
Deep conditioning treatment, also known as hair mask or conditioning pack, is a chemical mixture of concentrated protein and intensive moisturizer.

It penetrates the cuticle layer and is the chosen therapy when a moisturizing and/or protein treatment is desired.
After the client consultation and before any service can begin, the client must be draped appropriately for the service or services they are to receive.

By ensuring proper draping you can prevent getting your clients clothing wet or worse getting haircolor or perm solution on your clients clothing.

There are two types of draping:

1. Shampoo draping

2.Chemical service draping.
A shampoo draping, also known as a wet draping, is a draping procedure used for shampoo styling service or a shampoo haircut service.

Two towels are used to protect the client, one under the cape and one over the cape.

Once shampoo is complete you may remove towels and replace with a neck strip and cape.
In a chemical draping, the client is draped with two towels, again one under and one on the outside of the cape.

The difference is with chemical draping the towels are not removed until the service is complete, unless it gets wet, which then it is replaced.

Reminder: During chemical services keep checking to see if towel needs replacing!
Three-Part Procedure
The Three-Part Procedure consists of :

1. Pre-Service Procedure. Organized step-by-step plan for the cleaning and disinfecting of your tools, implements and materials for setting up your station; and for meeting and greeting your client and escorting them to your station.
2. Service Procedure. This is an organized, step-by-step plan for accomplishing the actual service. Such as a shampoo, haircut or haircoloring.

3. Post-Service Procedure. Again is a step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the service has been completed. Such as helping your client through the scheduling and payment process and providing information for you on how to prepare for your next client.
Some stylists view the shampoo as down time and use it to talk about what they did the night before.

It is important to remember that your time, and your clients' time, is valuable and can be better spent.

You can begin to start your professional relationship during the shampoo by giving clients info about what you are doing and why.

Let clients know what products you are using and why and mention that these products are available for purchase.

You will find the stylist with the hightest client retention also has the highest retail sales. This stylist has gained the client's trust and professional respect.
Intake form and Client Consultation
good & bad funny
hydrophilic/water attracting
lipophilic/oil attracting
Full transcript