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advanced nails 27,28 and 29

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jennifer collins

on 22 July 2016

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Transcript of advanced nails 27,28 and 29

Advanced nails
Monomer liquids and polymer powders
ch. 28 (acrylics)

History of Nail extensions
long nails were a status symbol - even in the early centuries
Ming Dynasty ancient china - royals wore very long nails
Nail tips, wraps and no light gels Ch. 27
UV Gels Ch. 29
19th. century greece they used empty pistachio
shells to simulate long nails.
1954 - a dentist invented/patented the first realistic artificial nail
1970 - MMA was introduced for use
creating acrylic nails
Mainly used for dental and bones
acrylic nails got a bad name because
of this chemical.
lots of filing, too hard, clients and technicians
started having health problems
1974 - FDA banned MMA for use on soft porous tissues.
you can still find it used in low level quick nail salons
EMA was introduced
better, less toxic, less filing longer setting times, more flexible and more natural.
Why do some "salons" still use MMA when it is prohibited?
MMA = $9.00 - $22.00 per Gallon
EMA - $189 - $225 per Gallon
signs a salon/nail technician is using MMA
*strong vapors/technicians wearing masks/using drills/ low prices
Why study artificial nails?
big money maker
knowing how to properly apply/maintain
keeping integrity of natural nail
creative outlet
understanding how to deter your clients from
the less reputable low price acrylic places
learn the different uses/types
maintain your own nails
lets start with nail tips - Ch. 27
Nail tips - ABS(plastic) used to extend the natural nail and as a base for acrylics or gels
come in many different sizes, shapes, wells and colors
full well
partial well
well - less
Materials and supplies
abrasive boards, buffer blocks, nail tip adhesive, tip cutter and nail dehydrator.
abrasive board/nail file
buffer
Nail tip adhesive -
cyanoacrylate
monomer
gel/resin, liquid - brush on or tube
the thicker consistency the longer setting time
Nail Wraps/system
nail wraps - securing fabric or paper around the nail for strength
nail wrap resin - cyanoacrylate - heart of the wrap system
fabric - silk-linen-fiberglass-paper
silk - thin,
natural, tight
weave transparent
Linen - heavy material
opaque- use colored polish -
strongest wrap
fiberglass - thin synthetic- loose weave
weakest
paper - temporary
weakest
Wrap resin and accelerator
accelerator - speeds up curing process
Nail tip application
( no soaking)

choose/size nail tips for all 10 fingers, nail tips should fit from sidewall to side wall.
begin basic dry manicure
gently push back cuticles
shape nails
buff nails
dehydrate (alcohol or nail dehydrator)
ph balance nail for best adhesion(bond aid)
apply small amt of glue in nail well apply nail stop, rock and hold.
nail should not be more than 1/3 down the natural nail
use tip cutter to trim nails to desired length.
shape nail tip and blend
tip cutter- designed for cutting nail tips
natural nail prep
Wrap application
small piece of plastic to smooth!
wrap maintenance - 2wk/4wk
Dip powder and adhesive types
stress strip or repair patch
too much accelerator(heat spike)
No light Gels
another form of cyanoacrylate
Moving on to Acrylic nails
Ch. 28 Monomer liquids and polymer powders
Acrylic - a general term - used to make anything from contact lenses to counter tops to filling teeth/bones or creating a beautiful nail.
You need two things to create an acrylic nail
1. Monomer liquid - mono means 1 mer means unit
the liquid contains ethyl methylacrylate
and catalysts.

catalysts speed up the curing time
needs to be stored in a cool dark area to maintain integrity of product. short shelf life
2. Polymer powder - poly means many mer means unit.
made through a process
called polymerization

contains polymer and initiators
usually BPO and pigments

Initiators - start the chain reaction of the curing process

needs to be stored in a cool dark place also

both products have to be used to create an acrylic nail.

Basic applications for acrylic
Overlay - natural nail or tips
sculpted nails
3D design art
Tools you will need to perform an acrylic application
Dappen dish
acrylic brush - natural sable hair the best
a manicure set including files and buffers
optional items
Products needed
cuticle remover - monomer liquid- polymer powder-nail dehydrator -primer
Primer - primer dries and leaves an open ended molecule that promotes the acrylic adhering to the natural nail plate
Creating the acrylic overlay/nail
1. to create a bead of product you must dip the brush into the liquid.
the hair will hold the
liquid because its porous.
2. wipe excess liquid off brush
3. dip tip of brush in powder
and drag or swirl
4. tap excess powder

you have a bead of product
Mix Ratio = type of bead
Dry Bead - equal parts powder to liquid
Medium Bead - 1.5 liquid to 1 powder
Wet Bead - 2 liquid to 1 powder
if your bead consistency is incorrect it can cause the acrylic to cure wrong, and cause yellowing, not curing completely and brittleness.
Forming and acrylic nail
place bead on nail, let settle then pat in to shape using the belly of the brush.
Apex-arch/curve of nail
stress area - free edge meets nail bed
side wall - extension leaves nail plate
thickness - credit card thin
C curve - natural nail curvature
smile line
Traditional VS. Oderless
Traditional - stronger odor faster cure time
no inhibition layer, med bead mix ratio

odorless - less odor, slower cure time, dry
bead mix ratio, frequent wiping of brush, inhibition layer to be removed.
soaking and removal take 20 - 30 minutes
last but not least lets go through UV Gel's ch. 29
UV Gel service needs two things

Gel products are not thought of as methacrylates, but they are.
UV gels require each coat to be cured under the uv light
synthetic gel brush
UV light Bulb
4.6.7.8,9 watt bulbs
changed 2/3 times year
watt=electricity used
evolved in 2000
two color
one color
opacity
self leveling
bonding gel - building gel - finisher
less time! to
cure.
acrylic application sculpture
hard gel VS soft/soakable gel
Hard Gel Application
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