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Construction of a Shirt

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by Judy Hatch on 19 May 2014

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Transcript of Construction of a Shirt

Facings
Collars

sleeve
buttons
hem
1. Take accurate body
measurements
1. Follow guide sheet to layout
pattern pieces
2. Cut and mark the fabric
2. Determine pattern size
by body measurements
Body Measurement
CONSTRUCTION OF A SHIRT
Cutting out
1. Interfacing is a special fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching, add shape, or add crispness to a certain area.
2. The four main types are:
fusible woven
fusible non-woven
sew-in woven
sew-in non-woven
3. Interfacing is often used in places like:
-collars
-cuffs
- openings with buttons &
buttonholes.
4. Fusible interfacing uses a combination of:
- heat
-moisture
-pressure
6. Facings finish a raw edge, such as a neckline or armhole.
7. The outside edge of a facing should be finished with serging or a clean finish.
5. Interfacing is applied to the WRONG side of the fabric.
clipping is tiny clips used to allow a curve to lie flat
notching means cutting tiny wedges in the seam allowance to reduce bulk
Stitching the seam allowance to the facing to prevent the facing from rolling to the right side is called UNDERSTITCHING.
Grading/layering means to trim each layer of the seam allowance to different widths to reduce bulk.
Set-in Sleeves
Raglan Sleeve
Kimono Sleeve

1. Open sleeve
sew sleeve into the shirt/dress
sew the underarm and side seam

2. Closed sleeve
Sew the side seam of the shirt
Sew the underarm seam of the sleeve
Sew the sleeve into the circle opening
Two ways to sew a set-in sleeve:
Sew the sleeve to the front and back of the shirt
Sew the underarm and the side seam in one step
The finished bottom edge of a garment is called a HEM
The cut or raw edge of the fabric needs a seam finish before the hem is stitched. Some common ways to do this are:
clean finish
serged
folded
seam tape
zig-zag
stitched and pinked

Some different types of hems:
hand stitched hem
double fold hem
machine blind hem
rolled hem
double needle hem
machine stitched hem

On a curved or round hem the edge must be eased in to fit.
A rolled hem is generally found on the edge of scarfs, napkins or tablecloths.

It is often done on a serger.
A machine blind hem is a combination of a straight stitch and a zig-zag stitch where only the zig-zag goes through to the right side of the garment.
A hand stitched hem is sewn with a single thread
Knit fabrics are frequently sewn with a double needle hem
Double fold hem
Determine the size of the buttonhole
Diameter of the button
+ the depth of button
= length of buttonhole

Make a test buttonhole on the same fabric & interfacing as garment

Sew buttonholes
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